Shout Out from San Francisco!

Cowtown no more? The San Francisco Chronicle says Midtown Sacramento is "hot, hip... and stylish!"

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/18/TRIJ10JUPH.DTL&hw=sacramento&sn=001&sc=1000

Hip, artsy heart beats in Sacramento's midtown
'Grid' turning into the place to hang out
Spud Hilton, Chronicle Staff Writer
Sunday, May 18, 2008

It used to be the most you could say about Sacramento's midtown was that it has pleasant, tree-canopied streets and row after row of Victorian-era homes, most remarkably well-preserved.

Yawn.

What used to be a cultural dead zone and excitement black hole between downtown and the burbs, however, quite suddenly has a hot, hip, walkable neighborhood at its heart, with dozens of stylish white-linen restaurants, of-the-moment boutique shops and galleries, and a sophisticated bohemian vibe not typically associated with, well, Sacramento.

It still has the trees and Victorians, but hardly anyone notices those anymore.

The midtown - officially called "the Grid" by locals and some savvy marketing firm - is still a work in progress, but it easily offers enough new diversions for a Sacramento weekend that have nothing to do with Gold Rush history or gargantuan shopping malls. The whole of the Grid is about 2 square miles, but at its center are about 24 square blocks (from 16th to 24th and from J Street to Capitol Avenue) that offer an accessible concentration of hip bistros and shops, including one intersection from which a well-thrown baseball could hit two funky coffeehouses, a wine-tasting shop and adjacent bar, three eclectic boutiques and four restaurants that would rate well by San Francisco standards.

Among the newer businesses is Newsbeat, a magazine, candy and smoke shop on 20th Street that carries a mind-boggling array of titles (usually a positive sign about neighborhood sophistication). Owners Janis and Terence Lott had a downtown store, but closed it to move into the MARRS (Midtown Art Retail Restaurant Scene) building, a bunkerlike retail development built into a 1940s warehouse. Now it has umbrellas and a wooden deck that provides bistro dining and sipping for Peet's Coffee, Luigi's Pizza Parlor, Mexican restaurant Azul and, eventually, a chic lounge and restaurant to anchor it.
"We're very excited about it all," said Janis Lott. "We feel like we're right at the heartbeat of everything."

Why go now: This latest incarnation of this neighborhood is barely old enough for preschool, which means it's growing - in size and sophistication - without yet succumbing to the pretentious crowds and the insufferable trendiness typically associated with an "arts district."
Backstory: Much of the renaissance can be attributed to new mixed-use loft housing that has sprouted in the past year or two (including two projects that filled what had been longtime vacant lots), as well as to savvy retail developers making sure that the young professionals who move in have a sophisticated selection of restaurants and shops.

Checking in: Lodging is relatively sparse, save for the cookie-cutter chains nearby that cater to conventioneers. Amber House Bed and Breakfast was highly recommended, but was booked for my weekend. I stayed instead at the Residence Inn Capitol Park (Marriott) near the east end of the park. A little pricy, but includes full breakfast, free wireless access and a full kitchen - which comes in handy with refrigerating and reheating leftovers from the previous night's bistro-hopping.

Spend your day: Start off at Plum Blossom Chinese Stir-Fried and Bakery Express (slogan: "Authentic yet progressive") for coffee and all manner of buns, from cheese to spicy beef to pineapple. Stroll over to Capitol Avenue and turn toward the state Capitol, making sure to notice the wealth of vintage homes - Queen Anns, California-style bungalows, Arts and Crafts cottages - including an impressive number converted to businesses, including law firms, yoga studios, salons and tattoo parlors. After spending a little time in Capitol Park (technically not in the Grid, but worth the brief detour), head to Capitol and 18th Street for outdoor lunch at Crepeville or Paesanos, taking time to admire outdoor seating at five restaurants at the intersection. Survey the snacking and shopping options at the MARRS building over at 20th and J streets, but return to get an afternoon java at the funky Old Soul Co. coffeehouse, a former warehouse where the baking is a spectator event (no walls separating kitchen from lounge). Browse the shelves at Zanzibar Trading Company (Buddhas and candles) and the French-themed Le Petit Paris (French stuff), and do a little wine-tasting at 58 Degrees on 18th Street before dinner at Zócalo.

Dining: Zócalo is a gorgeous, upscale eating place built into a 1930s car dealership that prides itself on its decor (all artwork and design by Guadalajara, Mexico, artist Ernesto Cruz), its authentic and modern dishes and a truly impressive margarita menu. During the day and on warm nights, the staff opens the giant windows, making even the interior feel like outdoor seating. (Guides labeled Eat the Grid and Shop the Grid are available at most businesses, although quite a few good restaurants are not listed in Eat the Grid, so don't rely solely on its recommendations.)

Don't miss: The Second Saturday Art Walk, a rollicking gallery and boutique event that started small but now requires closed-off streets and crowd control.

Don't bother: Skip Old Town Sacramento on this trip. Relax, stroll and dine with the locals instead.

Word to the wise: Parking is strictly monitored and can be a mess around lunchtime. Leave the car at the hotel (if possible) and walk everywhere.